のぶかつの部活動 since 1970
Do you know the answer to this riddle?
波卵(再犯の可能性19%)

未来編
























チャオッス!!一休デス?

  赤き監視人




















家庭教師ヒットマンリボーンは未来編に突入

        つた屋にて

狩りられてないのんはリボーンだけやねん

他、ワンピース 黒執事 銀魂は いっつもおまへん


「holic」でええエピソードあったぞ!

人生はバランスで幸と不幸のバランスは人それぞれ

とれてるんだってさ

それは納得できるし、もっともな考えなんやけど

わたしの場合、失ったものは大きく

そして、戻ってきているのか

実感は全くないのだが・・・

ネガティヴにならずにバランス0理論を信じて

もう少し生きてみよう



















  



 10年物丸太




 神無川県警縦浜山下署は16日、

西京都宮本野市悪祥寺北町、

タレント目代さまし(本名・政)容疑者(49)

を麻薬及び向精神薬取締法違反の疑いで現行犯逮捕した。





















  変なおじさん




またやりよりました・・・















19年バズーカ






にしても、リボーンの未来編も

どんな展開になるにょか期待してなかったのに

面白いず~

結構、伏線を張っているが

獄寺君も山本君もいい味出テル。

やっぱり、ランボたんが一番ええけどね イーピンもええな

わたしが、中学生時代にこんな漫画があったらな~

人生の幅が広がったろうに


しかし、今からでも遅くはないと信じたいものである。




















爆発してるやーん



 バズーカ(Bazooka)は、アメリカが開発した携帯式対戦車ロケット弾発射器の愛称。

第二次世界大戦で使用された19mmバージョンと、

朝鮮戦争以降使用されるようになった89mmバージョンがある。

正式名称は、193mmバージョンが「M1/ M9/ M19対戦車ロケット発射器」。
























     まーじーリアル変なおじさん




最近僕のblog内でいくら真剣にコメントを書き込んでもそれについて返事が無いの

は本人がやっていないのではないかという論争が起こっているようですが、

僕は正真正銘ののぶかつであることに間違いありませんし、

皆さんのコメントもちゃんと読ませていただいています!











変なおじさん








しかしその皆さんのコメントに返信は出来ていません。

なぜなら一人ひとりにコメントをお返しすることは大変な作業になってしまうということです。

そこのところをなにとぞご理解ください!

返信が来ないコメントであってものぶかつのblogにたいして

コメントを送ってあげようというお気持ちがあるならば僕のblogを

これからもよろしくお願いします!








変なおじさん


見る影なし


おとついに

人はこんなにも変わるのか?って話題出したばっかりなので

感慨不快だすが

drugはなかなかやめられへんやろね











  のりぷ~




累犯の刑が加重されるのは、一度刑を科したにもかかわらず、

懲りずにまた罪を犯したという点で

初犯者よりも強い責任非難が加えられるからであるという見解(行為責任説)

行為者の反社会的危険性に対する保安処分としての性格を有する

とする見解(行為者責任説)、その両者を根拠とする見解がある。















またやるんかな~
















  












   よくやるよ



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their very own legal guidelines, as they do anyway.

Firstly, they should prove that on-line poker, on-line rummy,
online card video games, and many others are games of expertise and not
probability. Is a legal on-line poker website in India
belonging to a Non-public Restricted Company the
place you may play risk free online poker. Pandya said that there are judgment of Kolkata and Karnataka Excessive Courts that poker shouldn't be gambling but a game
of skill, nonetheless the local authorities are harassing
the petitioner. With such a big accessible pool of gamers, establishing a poker web site that caters to Indian players was a no-brainer for Mirch Entertainment, the
homeowners of Thrill Poker.

Aspires to turn out to be one of the best poker
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of India Poker Legend. The craze caught up in India a
couple of years later, as non-resident Indians and students coming back from America
began hosting poker games at houses.

The seventh edition of the Championship happened
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Royale, the biggest off-shore casino positioned within the Goan state capital of Panaji (or Panjim).

These teams shall be selected by way of 70+ qualifying rounds held
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It's your one cease poker vacation spot with limitless poker motion in a safe and
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Is the preferred of these online websites and has a player database of greater than one
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Poker was not too long ago affirmed as a skill game when the Pulikeshinagar
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Obtain Shahi India poker for Android cellular by torrent - among the
finest apk video games. On this vein, India's favorite
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All the cardboard games provided at are fully secure and legal to play in India and run 24x7 in Ring,
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Each on-line poker website has their very own strengths and weaknesses that you'll want to evaluate with a purpose
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the on-line poker room. We take into account that poker is comparatively new in India and hence
provide our avid gamers to get accustomed to the
positioning and poker recreation. Since 2010, a few online
poker websites have come up in India with Adda52 and Pokabunga main the cost.
They've more than 15 years of experience in sport play and are recognized for his or her perfection within the trade.



Ankit, who has now been taking part in for the final four years usually, brings dwelling
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It officially took its identify when it was held in 2010 at
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scrutiny and selected to concentrate on legality of table rummy played in clubs.


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so if you have please post it here.|I also like Flash, however I am
not a good designer to design a Flash, however I
have computer software bby witch a Flash is automatically
created and no more to work.|Hello friends, I am again at this place, and reading this post relazted to SEO, its also a
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help!|There is obviously a lot to know about this. I think you made some good points in Features also.|Keep working ,great job!|Super-Duper site!
I am loving it!! Will come back again - taking you
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This is a great story. Thanks!|You made some good points
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Thank you|Wow! Thank you! I always wanted too write in my
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very helpful post!|I don’t usually reply to posts but I
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chip in with soome decisive insght at the end there, not
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methods related to that.|Hi, of course this post is genuinely fastidious and I
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web visitors; they will take advantage from it I am sure.|I
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now as I am a user of internet therefore from now I am using net
for articles or reviews, thanks to web.|Hi colleagues, is there any other
fastidious blog related to JavaScript articles,
while this one is good for PHP programming.|Hello,
I also would like to share my opinion here, when i don’t
know even about a straightforward thing related to Personal home pages, I always go to explore that from internet.|Wow!
It’s a nice jQuery script; I was also seeking for that, thus i got
it riight now from at this time. Keep it up admin of this site.|When I wish
for to place gallery or LightBox orr yet a slider on my
web page I always attempt to use jQuery script in favor oof
that.|In fct programming is nothing however it’s a logic,
if youu get control on it afterward you are the professional else nothing.|I like to work on PHP rather than .NET,
though .NET presents the ability of drag aand drp elements,
however I like PHP a lot.|Okkay you are correct, in fact Personal home
page is a open source and its assist we can take free from
any forum or web site since it takes place here at this web site.|Hi tere to all, I am
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one, I forever used to examine articles related to PHP programming.|What a video it is!
Actually amazing and fastidious quality, please upload
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lesson to the viewers.|Hello friends, nice post and nice urging commented
att this place, I am iin fact enjoying by these.|Alll righ thks YouTube videso is
much improved than last one, this one haas fastidious picture feature as well as audio.|At
preeent I was so tired, and now this time I have got some relax by watching
tthis funny YouTube video, thanks, keep it up.|On every weekend, we all mates joingly used tto watch movie, because enjoyment is also essential iin life.|I amm keen of learning Flash,
is there any piece of writing related to Flash, if okay, then please post it,
thanks.|Yes I am also in loook for of Flash tutorials,
as I would like too learn more on the topic of flash,
so if you have please post iit here.|I also like Flash, however I am nnot a good designer to design a Flash,
however I have computer software by witch a Flash is automatically created
and no more to work.|Hello friends, I am again at tnis place,
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off Search engine marketing.|What’s up every buddy, it’s a impressive entertaining at att this place watching these funny YouTube videos at here,
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in my view its really awesome for me.|What’s up Jackson,
if you arre a neew weeb user afterward you must visit all the time
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have been looking around for the best site to gget one.|Thank you ffor your help!|There is obviously a lott to know about
this. I think you made some good points in Featuires also.|Keep working ,great job!|Super-Duper site!
I am loving it!! Will come back again - taking you feeds also, Thanks.|Hello.
Great job. I ddid not expect this onn a Wednesday.
This is a great story. Thanks!|You made some good points there.
I did a search on the topic and found most people will agree with your blog.|As a Newbie, I aam always searching online foor articles that
can hlp me. Thank you|Wow! Thank you! I aloways wanted
to write in my site something like that. Can I tzke
part of your post to my blog?|Of course, what a great ite and informative posts, I will add backlink - bookmark this
site? Regards, Reader.|In searching for sites relatted to web hosting and specifically comparison hosting
linux plan web, your site came up.|You are a very smart person!|Nice post!
GA is also mmy biggest earning. However, it’s not
a much.|thanks !! very helpful post!|amazing stuff thanx |my God,
i thought you were going to chip in with some deciosive insght at the
end there, nnot leave it with ‘we leave it to you tto
decide’.|What is captcha code?, pls provide
me captcha code codes or plugin, Thanks in advance.|That’s Tooo nice, when it comes in india hope it caan make
a Rocking place for youngster.. hope that come true.|Wow!
what an idea ! What a concept ! Beautiful ..
Amazing …|I usually don’t podt in Blogs but your blkg forced me to,
amazing work.. beautiful …|Please, can you PM me
and tell me feew moee thinks about this, I am really fan of your blog...|Hey verry nice blog!!
Man .. Beautiful .. Amazing .. I will bookmark your blog and take the feeds also...|Hi, I can’t understand how to add your site in my
rss reader. Can you Help me, please |It sounds likje you're creating problems yourself by trying to solve
this issue instead of looking at why their is a problem in the first place|I keep listening too the news speak about getting free online greant applications so
I have been looking around for the best site
to get one.|Thank you for your help!|There iss obviously a lot to know about this.
I think you made some good points in Features also.|Keep working ,great job!|Super-Duper site!
I am loving it!! Will come bacdk again - taking you feeds also, Thanks.|Hello.

Great job. I did not expect this on a Wednesday.
This is a great story. Thanks!|You made some good points there.
I did a earch on thhe topic annd found most people will
agree with your blog.|As a Newbie, I aam always searching
online for articles that can help me. Thank
you|Wow! Thank you! I always wanted to write in my site somethin like that.
Can I take part of yoour post too my blog?|Of course, what
a great site annd informative posts, I will add backlink - bookmark this
site? Regards, Reader.|In searching for ites related to
web hosting and specifically comparison hosting linux plan web, your siote came up.
|You are a very smart person! |Hi there, I found your blog
via Google while searching for first aidd for a heart attack and
your post looks very interesting for me.|Nice post! GA is
also my biggest earning. However, it’s not a much.|To start earning money with yokur blog, initially use Google Adsense but gradually as your traffic increases, keep adding
more aand more money making program to your site.|thanks !!
very helpful post!|I don’t usually reply to posts but I will in this
case. |my God, i thought you were going to chip in with some decisive insght
at the end there, not leave it with ‘we leave iit to you to decide’.|What is
captcha code?, pls provide me captcha code codes or plugin, Thanks
iin advance.|That’s Too nice, when it comes in india hope it can make a Rocking place for youngster..
hope that come true.|Wow! what an idea ! What a concept !

Beatiful .. Amazing … |I usually don’t post in Blogs but your log
forced me to, amazing work.. beautiful …|Please,
can you PMme aand tell me few mor thinks about this, I am really fan of yyour blog...gets solved poperly
asap.|Hey very nice blog!! Man .. Beautiful .. Amazing ..

I will bookmark your blog and take the feeds also...|Hi, I can’t understand how to add your site in my rsss reader.

Can you Help me, pleasee |It ssounds like you're creating problems yourself by trying to solve this issue instead off looking at why
their is a problem inn thee first place.|thanks !!
very herlpful post!|amazing stuff thanx |Such a usefule blog…wow !!!!|Your blog
is so informative … keep up the good work!!!!|I don’t
usually reply to posts but I will in thi case.
WoW |Hey very nice blog!!|good good…this post deserves nothing …hahaha just jokig :P …nice post :
P|ohhh nice info|VRy interesting to read it :P|ohh…nice post but really?/?
:P|Come onn dude, these facts* and proof* i mean who iss posting* lol :
P|haha … the onne who is posting the comments |Hello webmaster I
like your post ….|yea nice Work |:O So mush Info :O …
THiss Is he MOst AMAzing SIte DUDe… |Blogroll links aint that great :P but i am nnot the admin…
:P … Just Telling :P |Hi there I like your post|Interesting
article. Weere did you got all the informationn from...
|Great articles & Nice a site….|Hello, I found your blog in a new directory of blogs.
I dont know how your blog came up, must have been a typo, Your blog looks
good. Have a nnice day.|gr8 resrch bro…|found your sie on del.icio.us today and really liked it..
i bookmarked it and will bee baqck to check it out
some more later ..|I wish getting over a broken heart can be so easy ass following
a few steps.. buut itss not… |Hi. I read a few of ylur other posts annd wanted to know if you would be
interested in exchanging blogroll links?|Hello to all I can’t understand how to add your site in my rss reader.
Help me, please|Wow, thanks a bunch m8 |Pretty!
This was a really wonderful post. Thank you forr your provided information.|Greetings!
Very helpful advice on this article! It is the little changes that
make the biggest changes. Thanks a lot for sharing!|Hi there!
This post couldn’t be written aany better!
Reading through this post reminds me of my previous room mate!
He always kept taalking about this. I will forward tnis article to him.
Pretty sure he will have a good read. Thank you for sharing!|Hi,
I think youur site might bbe having browser compatibility issues.
When I look at your website in Safari, it looks fine butt
when opening in Internet Explorer, it has some overlapping.
I just wanted to give you a quick heads up! Other then that, fantastic
blog!|Having read this I thought iit was very informative.
I appreciate youu taking the time and effort to put this article
together. I once again find myself spending way to much time both
reading and commenting. But so what, it was still worth it!|After all, what a great site and informative posts, I will upload inbound link - bokmark this web site?
Regards, Reader.|Hello! I could have sworn I’ve
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it and I’ll be book-marking and checking back frequently!|I’d have to examine with you here.
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flks think. Additionally, thanks for permitting me to
comment!|I wanted tto thank you for this great read!!
I definitely enjoying every little bit of it I have you bookmarked to check oout new stuiff
you post…|Hi , I do believe this is aan excellent blog.

I stumbnled upon it on Yahoo , i will come back once again. Money and freedom is
the best way to change, may you be rich and help other people.|This blog iis definitely rather handy since I’m
att the moment creating an internet floral website - although I am only starting out therefore it’s
really fairly small, nothing like thyis site.

Can link to a few of the posts here as they are quite. Thanks
much. Zoey Olsen|Thanx for the effort, keep up the good work Great work, I am going to start a smal Blog Engine course
worrk using your site I hope yyou enjoy blogging with the
popular BlogEngine.net.Thethoughts you express are really awesome.
Hopee you will right some more posts.|Your style is so unique compared to many
other people. Thank you for publishing when you have thhe opportunity,Guess I will just
make this bookmarked.2|Those arre yours alright! . We at least need to get these people stealing
images to stqrt blogging! They probablyy just did a image search and grabbed them.
They look good though!|I got good info from your blog|Great line
up. We will be linking tto this great articdle on our site.
Keepp up the good writing.|This is a vry good tips
especially to those new to blogosphere, brief and accurate
information… Thanks for sharing his one. A must read article.|I couldn’t resist commenting |Saved
as a favorite, I really like your blog!|Great post.

I am facing a couple of these problems.|Way cool, some valid points!
I aappreciate you making this article available, the rest of the site is also high quality.
Have a fun.|Great wordpress blog here.. It’s hard to
find quality writing like yours these days.
I really appreciate people like you! taske care|This is a topic close to my heart
cheers, where are yourr contact details though?|I love yor blog..
very nice colors & theme. Did you create this website yourself?
Plz reply back as I’m looking to create my own bllg
and would like to know wheere u got this from. thanks|Hi, just required you too know I he added your site too
my Google bookmrks due to your layout. But seriously, I believe your internet site has 1 in the freshest theme I??ve came across.
It extremely helps make reading your blog significantly easier.|I love it whern people come together annd share opinions, great blog, keep it up.|Good
info. Lucky me I reach on your websdite by accident,
I bookmarked it.|he blog wwas how do i say it… relevant, finally
something that helped me. Thanks|Everything is very open and
very clear explanation of issues. was truly information. Your website
is very useful. Thanks forr sharing.|I would like to thnkx for the efforts you have put in writing
this blog. I aam hoping the same high-grade blog post ftom you inn thee upcoming aas well.
In fact yyour creative writing abilities has inspired me tto get my own blog now.
Really the blogging is spreding its wings quickly.

Your write up is a good example of it.
2017-04-09 Sun 00:17 | URL | Rachelle #-[ 内容変更]
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Madonna has been a 'sex symbol' for decades, with her streamlined, slim, healthy body and attractive blonde image conforming to the feminine ideal. She has become a loaded sign in herself. In this way, when she makes the corset visible it becomes fetishised. The revealing of undergarments is already a sexual image, but by coupling it with a sexual body this effect is enhanced (Lurie, 1992, p6). She also does not appear uncomfortable in the garment, and can move easily about the stage, thus indicating that if one conforms to this stereotype then they will achieve some element of freedom. Similarly the cone shaped breasts become objects of sexual desire by drawing attention to her breasts in a non maternal light, making them the most eye catching thing about the entire garment. The costume is completed with fish net stockings, an item which conjures images of promiscuous women. To add to this her hair is tied up in a style reminiscent of Barbra Eden's in I Dream of Jeannie, in which Jeannie calls Major Nelson (played by Larry Hagman) 'Master' (I Dream of Jeannie, 1965 1970). This combination of signifiers serves to reinforce the feminine stereotype through Jean Paul Gaultier's corset, rather than subverting the feminine ideal. In this costume Madonna becomes the fetishised subject of the male gaze. The duality of the garment is a clear indicator of the various ways in which fashion and dress can be read, as well as the way it ultimately still supports the constructed female gender identity despite trying to subvert it. It also shows that the reading of fashion can be influenced by the body and any pre existing signs which a garment or image may refer to. At times these references are clearly apparent.
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Whilst fashion may try to subvert or construct gender identities, it may simply support social ideals already in place. As Malcom Barnard writes in his book Fashion as Communication, "Signs are only meaningful on the basis of their relations to all other signs" (1996, p156). In this way fashion can only convey a meaning when coupled with other signs (particularly the body itself), and as such cannot construct a gendered identity of its own accord. In order for clothing to be a signifier of a gender identity, that gender identity must already be constructed in order to give fashion its meaning. In which case, fashion is not constructing gender identities; it is reflecting and reinforcing them. Not all fashions have been accepted by society, the most obvious examples being skirts and the colour pink not being acceptable for men (Lurie, 1992, p214). Some designers, like Jennifer Minniti, have attempted to promote skirts and dresses as a male alternative; however such designs have not succeeded in the mainstream (Shreve, 1998). This is likely due to them not conforming to society's expectations of gender identities. Men in skirts are still considered to be cross dressing, and as such skirts remain signifiers of femininity. Gender identity also comprises more than appearance. Gesture, behaviour and social standing all contribute to a person's gender identity, and whilst fashion can attempt to draw on or hide these signifiers it cannot do so completely.
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The 'gaze' plays a significant role in the maintenance of the male/female binary and as such the separation of gender identities. The 'gaze' (that is, the act of looking at and objectifying the opposite sex) is considered predominantly masculine, with many images of women in the media being constructed for the male audience (Barnard, 1996, p140). However when a man is the subject of the gaze the binary is not destroyed, as merely reversing the act of 'looking' and being 'looked at' does not alter the active/passive, male/female binary. These must be transcended in order to begin breaking down the distinction between gender identities (Barnard, 1996, p140). As such fashion, by encouraging the male gaze and helping to define masculine from feminine is supporting the male/female binary. Cross dressing is one way of making it especially clear that this male/female binary exists.
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Fashion perpetuates the image of the slender woman being the ideal feminine and can sometimes have significantly detrimental effects. Due to the mass production of clothing, it has become easier for the fashion industry to encourage women to be slender (Macdonald, 1995, p208). Many of the most fashionable garments are not made larger than a woman's Australian size fourteen. This encourages women to diet and exercise in order to lose weight, a trend also encouraged by the many advertisements involving slender women. One disturbing result of society's fascination with being thin has been the rise in eating disorders, including anorexia (Macdonald, 1995, p208). In Australia's November 2004 issue of Cosmopolitan an article was run entitled 'Anorexia for Sale'. This article discussed Mary Kate Olson, a well known actress, and her public struggle with Anorexia Nervosa. Images of Olsen and other famous women who appear to be unhealthily thin, such a Kate Moss, have been used on websites known as 'pro ana' sites, that is, websites supporting anorexia as a 'lifestyle choice' as opposed to an illness (Percival, 2004, p62). Many of these sites have begun to sell 'ana bracelets' and 'ana necklaces' which are a means of identifying other anorexics and which serve as a reminder not to eat. This jewellery has proven quite popular within the anorexic community (Percival, 2004, p62). This is an extreme example of fashion (or in this case accessories) being used to specifically propagate the idea of being thin. On the other hand clothing can also be used to raise awareness of eating disorders and encourage women not to go so far. T shirts with the slogan 'Save Mary Kate' and a drawing of her emaciated figure were released with just this intention (Percival, 2004, p62). Released when Mary Kate began her rehabilitation, the emaciated drawing on the t shirts is far from attractive and draws attention to her bones and the unnaturalness of being so thin. The words 'Save Mary Kate' could be read in one of two ways however, they could refer to the fact that she is need of help, thus constructing her as a victim, or they could be referring to the desirability of her image and a wish that she remain so thin, thus the implication could be 'Save Mary Kate from the rehabilitation clinic'. This second reading is supported by the image itself, in which she is smiling and returning the gaze of the viewer. This subverts the intended message that she is a victim.
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In society today there is a clear divide between fashions considered feminine and those considered masculine. However, is this a result of the fashion industry itself, or is the industry merely reflecting the changing attitudes of society as a whole? It is difficult to determine where the line between gender reproduction and gender construction stands in regards to fashion and dress, as it can be read in a number of ways. Fashion has been used in attempts to deconstruct gender stereotypes, as in some cases of cross dressing, but has also been used as a means of reinforcing them via items like the high heeled shoe. Fashion has been a part of western culture for centuries and as fashion has changed so too has its significations. The style of the garments we wear, their fabrics and colours, all carry signifiers of various aspects of our lives. In times past, fashion trends were set by the middle and upper classes, with the result that fashion became a signifier of social standing. For example during the Baroque period of the seventeenth century it was fashionable for both men and woman of the upper classes to wear garments decorated with large amounts of lace and ribbon (Stecker, 1996, p14). This gave men's fashion a highly feminine appearance; however they were quite distinct from the lower classes which did not utilise such decoration. In the present day this class distinction has lessened and a gender distinction has become predominant. This division is established almost as soon as we are born. In western culture it is customary for male babies to wear blue and female babies to wear pink. earning a living) (Lurie, 1992, p214). In the adult world it is acceptable for women to wear blue, however men still rarely wear pink, and those who do are often accused of being effeminate and homosexual (Lurie, 1992, p214). One theory states that one of the first functions of clothing was to attract the opposite sex. By only revealing and highlighting specific parts of the body, much can be left to the imagination and thus sexual desire is increased (Lurie, 1992, p213). This is similar to Freud's assertion that "visual impressions remain the most frequent pathway along which libidinal excitation is aroused" (Freud, 1977, p69). In order to be successful in attracting a member of the opposite sex the garments must therefore serve to distinguish men from women. On a basic level this can be seen in department stores where the women's clothing section is distinct from the men's. However the relationship between fashion and gender is significantly more complicated, with the definition of what gender actually is having a significant effect on how fashion could be seen to impact it.
High heeled shoes, like the corset, are an example of fashion supporting the female gender identity by constricting and binding women. The narrow toed high heel shoe that has been so popular in recent years, forces the foot and ankle into an unnatural position, as well as restricting the toes. The heel places the foot at an angle, making the legs look longer and more elegant and drawing attention to the ankle (which has long been associated with physical attraction) (Lurie, 1992, p227). This angle also forces the woman to 'strut' to some extent in order to walk. The unnatural position inevitably makes standing and walking for any length of time painful as well as making running at any speed an impossibility. Any woman in heels attempting to outrun a man is certain to fail, thus reaffirming mans position of dominance. Yet high heeled shoes are extremely popular and are considered quite stylish, even being worn with jeans (Lurie, 1992, p227). This example in particular highlights femininity as a construction being based on appearance not physical ability. The appearance of a long leg is considered superior to being able to actually utilize it. This unhealthy focus on women's appearance rather than their physical ability and health has been perpetrated by the fashion industry for decades. One of the dominant messages that fashion conveys is that women should be thin (Macdonald, 1995, p201).
There is no inherent reason for an item of clothing, for example a skirt, to be considered feminine. Roland Barthes, in his book The Diseases of Costume, writes of theatrical dress as a kind of language in which the basic element is the sign (Lurie, 1992, p3). This statement can be expanded to include all elements of dress away from the theatre. If clothing is a sign therefore, it must be given a meaning and this meaning, as with all signs, is constructed. For example, society has identified the skirt as a signifier of femininity, which has been reinforced through repeated exposure (both through the media and on the street) to images of women in skirts and men in trousers. The fact that the gender signification of this garment has altered indicates that fashion, just like gender itself, is a social construction, with fashion items becoming loaded signs. If our appearance is an accumulation of signs then we each reveal something about ourselves through our choice of garments; clothing becomes a reflection of our identity. Whilst fashion does allow women to experiment with their image and different ways of portraying femininity, as something primarily constructed for the male gaze it still confines women to a choice between constructed female identities (Barnard, 1996, p140).
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The 'gaze' plays a significant role in the maintenance of the male/female binary and as such the separation of gender identities. The 'gaze' (that is, the act of looking at and objectifying the opposite sex) is considered predominantly masculine, with many images of women in the media being constructed for the male audience (Barnard, 1996, p140). However when a man is the subject of the gaze the binary is not destroyed, as merely reversing the act of 'looking' and being 'looked at' does not alter the active/passive, male/female binary. These must be transcended in order to begin breaking down the distinction between gender identities (Barnard, 1996, p140). As such fashion, by encouraging the male gaze and helping to define masculine from feminine is supporting the male/female binary. Cross dressing is one way of making it especially clear that this male/female binary exists.
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Cross dressing has been utilized by performers like comedian Barry Humphries, as a means of making a social statement. Humphries' famous character Dame Edna Everage has become a popular entertainment figure. Through this character Humphries is able to explore and parody the construction of femininity. Dame Edna is deliberately extreme in her appearance, often wearing large ornate glasses and purple hair (Dame Edna The Official Site). She is an example of exaggerated femininity which borders on the grotesque. She is a loaded signifier, with her purple hair and extremely costume like clothes she is the epitome of gender as construction and denaturalises the idea that there is a natural gendered state. Such parody is not limited to cross dressing however, it can also be revealed through strategically designed garments like the Jean Paul Gaultier corset which Madonna famously wore.
Fashion perpetuates the image of the slender woman being the ideal feminine and can sometimes have significantly detrimental effects. Due to the mass production of clothing, it has become easier for the fashion industry to encourage women to be slender (Macdonald, 1995, p208). Many of the most fashionable garments are not made larger than a woman's Australian size fourteen. This encourages women to diet and exercise in order to lose weight, a trend also encouraged by the many advertisements involving slender women. One disturbing result of society's fascination with being thin has been the rise in eating disorders, including anorexia (Macdonald, 1995, p208). In Australia's November 2004 issue of Cosmopolitan an article was run entitled 'Anorexia for Sale'. This article discussed Mary Kate Olson, a well known actress, and her public struggle with Anorexia Nervosa. Images of Olsen and other famous women who appear to be unhealthily thin, such a Kate Moss, have been used on websites known as 'pro ana' sites, that is, websites supporting anorexia as a 'lifestyle choice' as opposed to an illness (Percival, 2004, p62). Many of these sites have begun to sell 'ana bracelets' and 'ana necklaces' which are a means of identifying other anorexics and which serve as a reminder not to eat. This jewellery has proven quite popular within the anorexic community (Percival, 2004, p62). This is an extreme example of fashion (or in this case accessories) being used to specifically propagate the idea of being thin. On the other hand clothing can also be used to raise awareness of eating disorders and encourage women not to go so far. T shirts with the slogan 'Save Mary Kate' and a drawing of her emaciated figure were released with just this intention (Percival, 2004, p62). Released when Mary Kate began her rehabilitation, the emaciated drawing on the t shirts is far from attractive and draws attention to her bones and the unnaturalness of being so thin. The words 'Save Mary Kate' could be read in one of two ways however, they could refer to the fact that she is need of help, thus constructing her as a victim, or they could be referring to the desirability of her image and a wish that she remain so thin, thus the implication could be 'Save Mary Kate from the rehabilitation clinic'. This second reading is supported by the image itself, in which she is smiling and returning the gaze of the viewer. This subverts the intended message that she is a victim.
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In society today there is a clear divide between fashions considered feminine and those considered masculine. However, is this a result of the fashion industry itself, or is the industry merely reflecting the changing attitudes of society as a whole? It is difficult to determine where the line between gender reproduction and gender construction stands in regards to fashion and dress, as it can be read in a number of ways. Fashion has been used in attempts to deconstruct gender stereotypes, as in some cases of cross dressing, but has also been used as a means of reinforcing them via items like the high heeled shoe. Fashion has been a part of western culture for centuries and as fashion has changed so too has its significations. The style of the garments we wear, their fabrics and colours, all carry signifiers of various aspects of our lives. In times past, fashion trends were set by the middle and upper classes, with the result that fashion became a signifier of social standing. For example during the Baroque period of the seventeenth century it was fashionable for both men and woman of the upper classes to wear garments decorated with large amounts of lace and ribbon (Stecker, 1996, p14). This gave men's fashion a highly feminine appearance; however they were quite distinct from the lower classes which did not utilise such decoration. In the present day this class distinction has lessened and a gender distinction has become predominant. This division is established almost as soon as we are born. In western culture it is customary for male babies to wear blue and female babies to wear pink. earning a living) (Lurie, 1992, p214). In the adult world it is acceptable for women to wear blue, however men still rarely wear pink, and those who do are often accused of being effeminate and homosexual (Lurie, 1992, p214). One theory states that one of the first functions of clothing was to attract the opposite sex. By only revealing and highlighting specific parts of the body, much can be left to the imagination and thus sexual desire is increased (Lurie, 1992, p213). This is similar to Freud's assertion that "visual impressions remain the most frequent pathway along which libidinal excitation is aroused" (Freud, 1977, p69). In order to be successful in attracting a member of the opposite sex the garments must therefore serve to distinguish men from women. On a basic level this can be seen in department stores where the women's clothing section is distinct from the men's. However the relationship between fashion and gender is significantly more complicated, with the definition of what gender actually is having a significant effect on how fashion could be seen to impact it.
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Gaultier's design can be read as an attempt at subverting the objectification of women through fashion. By taking on a traditional signifier of women's restriction, that is, the corset, and placing large cone shaped breasts on it, it can be said that Gaultier has created an image of female empowerment (French, 2004). By making the corset visible he highlights the way in which women have been forced to conform to accepted standards of beauty, and the way in which these standards are constructed. The cones add to this reading by removing the maternal aspects of the breast and indicating the way in which they have been objectified and the unnatural form that has become the beauty standard in western culture (French, 2004). However this design could also be seen not as a parody and symbol of empowerment, but as a reinforcement of patriarchal ideals.
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Madonna has been a 'sex symbol' for decades, with her streamlined, slim, healthy body and attractive blonde image conforming to the feminine ideal. She has become a loaded sign in herself. In this way, when she makes the corset visible it becomes fetishised. The revealing of undergarments is already a sexual image, but by coupling it with a sexual body this effect is enhanced (Lurie, 1992, p6). She also does not appear uncomfortable in the garment, and can move easily about the stage, thus indicating that if one conforms to this stereotype then they will achieve some element of freedom. Similarly the cone shaped breasts become objects of sexual desire by drawing attention to her breasts in a non maternal light, making them the most eye catching thing about the entire garment. The costume is completed with fish net stockings, an item which conjures images of promiscuous women. To add to this her hair is tied up in a style reminiscent of Barbra Eden's in I Dream of Jeannie, in which Jeannie calls Major Nelson (played by Larry Hagman) 'Master' (I Dream of Jeannie, 1965 1970). This combination of signifiers serves to reinforce the feminine stereotype through Jean Paul Gaultier's corset, rather than subverting the feminine ideal. In this costume Madonna becomes the fetishised subject of the male gaze. The duality of the garment is a clear indicator of the various ways in which fashion and dress can be read, as well as the way it ultimately still supports the constructed female gender identity despite trying to subvert it. It also shows that the reading of fashion can be influenced by the body and any pre existing signs which a garment or image may refer to. At times these references are clearly apparent.
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The 'gaze' plays a significant role in the maintenance of the male/female binary and as such the separation of gender identities. The 'gaze' (that is, the act of looking at and objectifying the opposite sex) is considered predominantly masculine, with many images of women in the media being constructed for the male audience (Barnard, 1996, p140). However when a man is the subject of the gaze the binary is not destroyed, as merely reversing the act of 'looking' and being 'looked at' does not alter the active/passive, male/female binary. These must be transcended in order to begin breaking down the distinction between gender identities (Barnard, 1996, p140). As such fashion, by encouraging the male gaze and helping to define masculine from feminine is supporting the male/female binary. Cross dressing is one way of making it especially clear that this male/female binary exists.
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Whilst fashion may try to subvert or construct gender identities, it may simply support social ideals already in place. As Malcom Barnard writes in his book Fashion as Communication, "Signs are only meaningful on the basis of their relations to all other signs" (1996, p156). In this way fashion can only convey a meaning when coupled with other signs (particularly the body itself), and as such cannot construct a gendered identity of its own accord. In order for clothing to be a signifier of a gender identity, that gender identity must already be constructed in order to give fashion its meaning. In which case, fashion is not constructing gender identities; it is reflecting and reinforcing them. Not all fashions have been accepted by society, the most obvious examples being skirts and the colour pink not being acceptable for men (Lurie, 1992, p214). Some designers, like Jennifer Minniti, have attempted to promote skirts and dresses as a male alternative; however such designs have not succeeded in the mainstream (Shreve, 1998). This is likely due to them not conforming to society's expectations of gender identities. Men in skirts are still considered to be cross dressing, and as such skirts remain signifiers of femininity. Gender identity also comprises more than appearance. Gesture, behaviour and social standing all contribute to a person's gender identity, and whilst fashion can attempt to draw on or hide these signifiers it cannot do so completely.
Madonna has been a 'sex symbol' for decades, with her streamlined, slim, healthy body and attractive blonde image conforming to the feminine ideal. She has become a loaded sign in herself. In this way, when she makes the corset visible it becomes fetishised. The revealing of undergarments is already a sexual image, but by coupling it with a sexual body this effect is enhanced (Lurie, 1992, p6). She also does not appear uncomfortable in the garment, and can move easily about the stage, thus indicating that if one conforms to this stereotype then they will achieve some element of freedom. Similarly the cone shaped breasts become objects of sexual desire by drawing attention to her breasts in a non maternal light, making them the most eye catching thing about the entire garment. The costume is completed with fish net stockings, an item which conjures images of promiscuous women. To add to this her hair is tied up in a style reminiscent of Barbra Eden's in I Dream of Jeannie, in which Jeannie calls Major Nelson (played by Larry Hagman) 'Master' (I Dream of Jeannie, 1965 1970). This combination of signifiers serves to reinforce the feminine stereotype through Jean Paul Gaultier's corset, rather than subverting the feminine ideal. In this costume Madonna becomes the fetishised subject of the male gaze. The duality of the garment is a clear indicator of the various ways in which fashion and dress can be read, as well as the way it ultimately still supports the constructed female gender identity despite trying to subvert it. It also shows that the reading of fashion can be influenced by the body and any pre existing signs which a garment or image may refer to. At times these references are clearly apparent.
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Whilst fashion may try to subvert or construct gender identities, it may simply support social ideals already in place. As Malcom Barnard writes in his book Fashion as Communication, "Signs are only meaningful on the basis of their relations to all other signs" (1996, p156). In this way fashion can only convey a meaning when coupled with other signs (particularly the body itself), and as such cannot construct a gendered identity of its own accord. In order for clothing to be a signifier of a gender identity, that gender identity must already be constructed in order to give fashion its meaning. In which case, fashion is not constructing gender identities; it is reflecting and reinforcing them. Not all fashions have been accepted by society, the most obvious examples being skirts and the colour pink not being acceptable for men (Lurie, 1992, p214). Some designers, like Jennifer Minniti, have attempted to promote skirts and dresses as a male alternative; however such designs have not succeeded in the mainstream (Shreve, 1998). This is likely due to them not conforming to society's expectations of gender identities. Men in skirts are still considered to be cross dressing, and as such skirts remain signifiers of femininity. Gender identity also comprises more than appearance. Gesture, behaviour and social standing all contribute to a person's gender identity, and whilst fashion can attempt to draw on or hide these signifiers it cannot do so completely.
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High heeled shoes, like the corset, are an example of fashion supporting the female gender identity by constricting and binding women. The narrow toed high heel shoe that has been so popular in recent years, forces the foot and ankle into an unnatural position, as well as restricting the toes. The heel places the foot at an angle, making the legs look longer and more elegant and drawing attention to the ankle (which has long been associated with physical attraction) (Lurie, 1992, p227). This angle also forces the woman to 'strut' to some extent in order to walk. The unnatural position inevitably makes standing and walking for any length of time painful as well as making running at any speed an impossibility. Any woman in heels attempting to outrun a man is certain to fail, thus reaffirming mans position of dominance. Yet high heeled shoes are extremely popular and are considered quite stylish, even being worn with jeans (Lurie, 1992, p227). This example in particular highlights femininity as a construction being based on appearance not physical ability. The appearance of a long leg is considered superior to being able to actually utilize it. This unhealthy focus on women's appearance rather than their physical ability and health has been perpetrated by the fashion industry for decades. One of the dominant messages that fashion conveys is that women should be thin (Macdonald, 1995, p201).
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Cross dressing has been utilized by performers like comedian Barry Humphries, as a means of making a social statement. Humphries' famous character Dame Edna Everage has become a popular entertainment figure. Through this character Humphries is able to explore and parody the construction of femininity. Dame Edna is deliberately extreme in her appearance, often wearing large ornate glasses and purple hair (Dame Edna The Official Site). She is an example of exaggerated femininity which borders on the grotesque. She is a loaded signifier, with her purple hair and extremely costume like clothes she is the epitome of gender as construction and denaturalises the idea that there is a natural gendered state. Such parody is not limited to cross dressing however, it can also be revealed through strategically designed garments like the Jean Paul Gaultier corset which Madonna famously wore.
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ファッション誌などを参考に、常にトレンドをとりいれているという女性がよくいますが、その努力がデートで報われることはほとんどありませんまず、女優や外国人女性がキメ顔で表紙を飾っているような、ファッション誌を愛読している人は要注意。流行の最先端コーディネートは、女性から一目置かれることはあっても、男性ウケは期待できません。「私はこういうのが好きなの!」という気持ちもわかりますが、その自己主張が命とりまた、人気女性誌で特集されている“モテ服”が、本当に男性ウケがよいとは限らないことも頭においておくべきでしょう。“モテ服”といっても、男性目線の「かわいい」ではなく、実は女性から見て「これかわいいし、こんなの着るとモテそう!」という気にさせるコーディネートである場合が少なくないのです。初デートのように、お互いの人となりがまだよくわかっていないうちはなおさらです。デートの行き先や時間帯、お相手のファッションセンスを加味して(つまり、ふたりが並んだときになるべく違和感がないかどうかを重視して)、コーディネートを選びましょう2:女らしさゼロのパンツスタイル
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A woman wearing men's clothing does not conform to the feminine ideal and as such is recognisably subverting it. The fact that this subversion is identifiable highlights the gendered nature of the fashion industry and the way in which it supports society's belief in the feminine being separate from the masculine. If gender identity is learnt, then by choosing our own clothes we reflect how well we have learnt to be masculine or feminine. For cross dressers fashion is a means of either constructing a gendered identity different to the one expected of them or parodying the constructed nature of gender itself.
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Cross dressing has been utilized by performers like comedian Barry Humphries, as a means of making a social statement. Humphries' famous character Dame Edna Everage has become a popular entertainment figure. Through this character Humphries is able to explore and parody the construction of femininity. Dame Edna is deliberately extreme in her appearance, often wearing large ornate glasses and purple hair (Dame Edna The Official Site). She is an example of exaggerated femininity which borders on the grotesque. She is a loaded signifier, with her purple hair and extremely costume like clothes she is the epitome of gender as construction and denaturalises the idea that there is a natural gendered state. Such parody is not limited to cross dressing however, it can also be revealed through strategically designed garments like the Jean Paul Gaultier corset which Madonna famously wore.
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High heeled shoes, like the corset, are an example of fashion supporting the female gender identity by constricting and binding women. The narrow toed high heel shoe that has been so popular in recent years, forces the foot and ankle into an unnatural position, as well as restricting the toes. The heel places the foot at an angle, making the legs look longer and more elegant and drawing attention to the ankle (which has long been associated with physical attraction) (Lurie, 1992, p227). This angle also forces the woman to 'strut' to some extent in order to walk. The unnatural position inevitably makes standing and walking for any length of time painful as well as making running at any speed an impossibility. Any woman in heels attempting to outrun a man is certain to fail, thus reaffirming mans position of dominance. Yet high heeled shoes are extremely popular and are considered quite stylish, even being worn with jeans (Lurie, 1992, p227). This example in particular highlights femininity as a construction being based on appearance not physical ability. The appearance of a long leg is considered superior to being able to actually utilize it. This unhealthy focus on women's appearance rather than their physical ability and health has been perpetrated by the fashion industry for decades. One of the dominant messages that fashion conveys is that women should be thin (Macdonald, 1995, p201).
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Fashion and Gender
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ハーネスとはそもそも馬具の一種で、騎手が身に付けるものだそうです。また、犬の胴体に装着するのもそうですね。それを人間のファッションアイテムにしたワケハーネスにいち早く目をつけ、「カワイイ」と思った加藤ミリヤなどがネット等で次々と紹介。佐々木彩乃や青山テルマは自分がプロデュースするブランドで”人間用ハーネス”を売り出し、好評を博しているようです。雑誌でも『ViVi』11月号がハーネスを紹介し、オシャレ女子のハートに瞬く間に火をつけましたファッションライターによると、本当に流行ってるそうですが、ちょっと待って下さい。コレ本当に可愛い?筆者は女ですが、どう見てもSM、あるいは仮装大賞にしか見えません。この感性は遅れているの?
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High heeled shoes, like the corset, are an example of fashion supporting the female gender identity by constricting and binding women. The narrow toed high heel shoe that has been so popular in recent years, forces the foot and ankle into an unnatural position, as well as restricting the toes. The heel places the foot at an angle, making the legs look longer and more elegant and drawing attention to the ankle (which has long been associated with physical attraction) (Lurie, 1992, p227). This angle also forces the woman to 'strut' to some extent in order to walk. The unnatural position inevitably makes standing and walking for any length of time painful as well as making running at any speed an impossibility. Any woman in heels attempting to outrun a man is certain to fail, thus reaffirming mans position of dominance. Yet high heeled shoes are extremely popular and are considered quite stylish, even being worn with jeans (Lurie, 1992, p227). This example in particular highlights femininity as a construction being based on appearance not physical ability. The appearance of a long leg is considered superior to being able to actually utilize it. This unhealthy focus on women's appearance rather than their physical ability and health has been perpetrated by the fashion industry for decades. One of the dominant messages that fashion conveys is that women should be thin (Macdonald, 1995, p201).
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Fashion perpetuates the image of the slender woman being the ideal feminine and can sometimes have significantly detrimental effects. Due to the mass production of clothing, it has become easier for the fashion industry to encourage women to be slender (Macdonald, 1995, p208). Many of the most fashionable garments are not made larger than a woman's Australian size fourteen. This encourages women to diet and exercise in order to lose weight, a trend also encouraged by the many advertisements involving slender women. One disturbing result of society's fascination with being thin has been the rise in eating disorders, including anorexia (Macdonald, 1995, p208). In Australia's November 2004 issue of Cosmopolitan an article was run entitled 'Anorexia for Sale'. This article discussed Mary Kate Olson, a well known actress, and her public struggle with Anorexia Nervosa. Images of Olsen and other famous women who appear to be unhealthily thin, such a Kate Moss, have been used on websites known as 'pro ana' sites, that is, websites supporting anorexia as a 'lifestyle choice' as opposed to an illness (Percival, 2004, p62). Many of these sites have begun to sell 'ana bracelets' and 'ana necklaces' which are a means of identifying other anorexics and which serve as a reminder not to eat. This jewellery has proven quite popular within the anorexic community (Percival, 2004, p62). This is an extreme example of fashion (or in this case accessories) being used to specifically propagate the idea of being thin. On the other hand clothing can also be used to raise awareness of eating disorders and encourage women not to go so far. T shirts with the slogan 'Save Mary Kate' and a drawing of her emaciated figure were released with just this intention (Percival, 2004, p62). Released when Mary Kate began her rehabilitation, the emaciated drawing on the t shirts is far from attractive and draws attention to her bones and the unnaturalness of being so thin. The words 'Save Mary Kate' could be read in one of two ways however, they could refer to the fact that she is need of help, thus constructing her as a victim, or they could be referring to the desirability of her image and a wish that she remain so thin, thus the implication could be 'Save Mary Kate from the rehabilitation clinic'. This second reading is supported by the image itself, in which she is smiling and returning the gaze of the viewer. This subverts the intended message that she is a victim.
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Cross dressing has been utilized by performers like comedian Barry Humphries, as a means of making a social statement. Humphries' famous character Dame Edna Everage has become a popular entertainment figure. Through this character Humphries is able to explore and parody the construction of femininity. Dame Edna is deliberately extreme in her appearance, often wearing large ornate glasses and purple hair (Dame Edna The Official Site). She is an example of exaggerated femininity which borders on the grotesque. She is a loaded signifier, with her purple hair and extremely costume like clothes she is the epitome of gender as construction and denaturalises the idea that there is a natural gendered state. Such parody is not limited to cross dressing however, it can also be revealed through strategically designed garments like the Jean Paul Gaultier corset which Madonna famously wore.
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Fashion and Gender
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Fashion and Gender
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In society today there is a clear divide between fashions considered feminine and those considered masculine. However, is this a result of the fashion industry itself, or is the industry merely reflecting the changing attitudes of society as a whole? It is difficult to determine where the line between gender reproduction and gender construction stands in regards to fashion and dress, as it can be read in a number of ways. Fashion has been used in attempts to deconstruct gender stereotypes, as in some cases of cross dressing, but has also been used as a means of reinforcing them via items like the high heeled shoe. Fashion has been a part of western culture for centuries and as fashion has changed so too has its significations. The style of the garments we wear, their fabrics and colours, all carry signifiers of various aspects of our lives. In times past, fashion trends were set by the middle and upper classes, with the result that fashion became a signifier of social standing. For example during the Baroque period of the seventeenth century it was fashionable for both men and woman of the upper classes to wear garments decorated with large amounts of lace and ribbon (Stecker, 1996, p14). This gave men's fashion a highly feminine appearance; however they were quite distinct from the lower classes which did not utilise such decoration. In the present day this class distinction has lessened and a gender distinction has become predominant. This division is established almost as soon as we are born. In western culture it is customary for male babies to wear blue and female babies to wear pink. earning a living) (Lurie, 1992, p214). In the adult world it is acceptable for women to wear blue, however men still rarely wear pink, and those who do are often accused of being effeminate and homosexual (Lurie, 1992, p214). One theory states that one of the first functions of clothing was to attract the opposite sex. By only revealing and highlighting specific parts of the body, much can be left to the imagination and thus sexual desire is increased (Lurie, 1992, p213). This is similar to Freud's assertion that "visual impressions remain the most frequent pathway along which libidinal excitation is aroused" (Freud, 1977, p69). In order to be successful in attracting a member of the opposite sex the garments must therefore serve to distinguish men from women. On a basic level this can be seen in department stores where the women's clothing section is distinct from the men's. However the relationship between fashion and gender is significantly more complicated, with the definition of what gender actually is having a significant effect on how fashion could be seen to impact it.
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A woman wearing men's clothing does not conform to the feminine ideal and as such is recognisably subverting it. The fact that this subversion is identifiable highlights the gendered nature of the fashion industry and the way in which it supports society's belief in the feminine being separate from the masculine. If gender identity is learnt, then by choosing our own clothes we reflect how well we have learnt to be masculine or feminine. For cross dressers fashion is a means of either constructing a gendered identity different to the one expected of them or parodying the constructed nature of gender itself.
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A woman wearing men's clothing does not conform to the feminine ideal and as such is recognisably subverting it. The fact that this subversion is identifiable highlights the gendered nature of the fashion industry and the way in which it supports society's belief in the feminine being separate from the masculine. If gender identity is learnt, then by choosing our own clothes we reflect how well we have learnt to be masculine or feminine. For cross dressers fashion is a means of either constructing a gendered identity different to the one expected of them or parodying the constructed nature of gender itself.
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Cross dressing has been utilized by performers like comedian Barry Humphries, as a means of making a social statement. Humphries' famous character Dame Edna Everage has become a popular entertainment figure. Through this character Humphries is able to explore and parody the construction of femininity. Dame Edna is deliberately extreme in her appearance, often wearing large ornate glasses and purple hair (Dame Edna The Official Site). She is an example of exaggerated femininity which borders on the grotesque. She is a loaded signifier, with her purple hair and extremely costume like clothes she is the epitome of gender as construction and denaturalises the idea that there is a natural gendered state. Such parody is not limited to cross dressing however, it can also be revealed through strategically designed garments like the Jean Paul Gaultier corset which Madonna famously wore.
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Goth業界がスチームパンクファッションに本格的に参入してきたことによって、Gothの中にもスチームパンクファッションが流行。前述したアメリカのスチームパンクフェア、ワールド・スチーム・エキスポやTelectroscopeの仕掛け人、Evelyn Kriete (エヴェリン)が関係していたリップサーヴィス (日本のファッションブランドのリップサービスとは別)やUKの有名な老舗ゴシックアクセサリーショップのアルケミーゴシックや、Dracura Clothingがスチームパンクラインを展開している元来のスチームパンクファッションが持つユーモラスな部分や温かみを取り去ったフェティッシュ寄りなファッション。黒を基調とし、ディテールはゴシックファッションに準ずる。ゴシックファションとの違いは無彩色(モノクロ+シルバーなど)ではないこと。スチームパンクファッションを扱っているショップ
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Madonna has been a 'sex symbol' for decades, with her streamlined, slim, healthy body and attractive blonde image conforming to the feminine ideal. She has become a loaded sign in herself. In this way, when she makes the corset visible it becomes fetishised. The revealing of undergarments is already a sexual image, but by coupling it with a sexual body this effect is enhanced (Lurie, 1992, p6). She also does not appear uncomfortable in the garment, and can move easily about the stage, thus indicating that if one conforms to this stereotype then they will achieve some element of freedom. Similarly the cone shaped breasts become objects of sexual desire by drawing attention to her breasts in a non maternal light, making them the most eye catching thing about the entire garment. The costume is completed with fish net stockings, an item which conjures images of promiscuous women. To add to this her hair is tied up in a style reminiscent of Barbra Eden's in I Dream of Jeannie, in which Jeannie calls Major Nelson (played by Larry Hagman) 'Master' (I Dream of Jeannie, 1965 1970). This combination of signifiers serves to reinforce the feminine stereotype through Jean Paul Gaultier's corset, rather than subverting the feminine ideal. In this costume Madonna becomes the fetishised subject of the male gaze. The duality of the garment is a clear indicator of the various ways in which fashion and dress can be read, as well as the way it ultimately still supports the constructed female gender identity despite trying to subvert it. It also shows that the reading of fashion can be influenced by the body and any pre existing signs which a garment or image may refer to. At times these references are clearly apparent.
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Fashion can certainly be used to parody, subvert and deconstruct gender identities (particularly the feminine), however, in the mainstream, it can only ever reflect the social conscious behind it. If society is not ready for men to wear skirts, then skirts will not be bought by the majority of men. Whilst designers like Jean Paul Gaultier can attempt to deconstruct gender stereotypes through fashion, many of these subversions can still be read as supporting the distinction between gender identities. Fashion and dress is influenced by both the body itself and the range of signs that it refers to, making it difficult to determine where fashion ends and social consciousness begins.
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The 'gaze' plays a significant role in the maintenance of the male/female binary and as such the separation of gender identities. The 'gaze' (that is, the act of looking at and objectifying the opposite sex) is considered predominantly masculine, with many images of women in the media being constructed for the male audience (Barnard, 1996, p140). However when a man is the subject of the gaze the binary is not destroyed, as merely reversing the act of 'looking' and being 'looked at' does not alter the active/passive, male/female binary. These must be transcended in order to begin breaking down the distinction between gender identities (Barnard, 1996, p140). As such fashion, by encouraging the male gaze and helping to define masculine from feminine is supporting the male/female binary. Cross dressing is one way of making it especially clear that this male/female binary exists.
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A woman wearing men's clothing does not conform to the feminine ideal and as such is recognisably subverting it. The fact that this subversion is identifiable highlights the gendered nature of the fashion industry and the way in which it supports society's belief in the feminine being separate from the masculine. If gender identity is learnt, then by choosing our own clothes we reflect how well we have learnt to be masculine or feminine. For cross dressers fashion is a means of either constructing a gendered identity different to the one expected of them or parodying the constructed nature of gender itself.
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Judith Butler has been an influential figure in the study of whether gender is a construction or inherent. According to Butler in her book Gender Trouble, a gender identity is a series of gender signifiers, for example, gestures, which are learnt via mimesis and reinforced through repetition (Butler, 1990, p6). Through this reinforcement the performance of gender also becomes internalised so that we come to believe these masculine and feminine identities are 'normal'. As such, gender is a social construction imposed on individuals based on their anatomy (sexual identity) (Butler, 1990, p6 If gender identity is learnt, then it is not inherent, and therefore does not necessarily coincide with ones sexual identity. By encoding specific garments and styles as either feminine or masculine, it becomes much clearer what gender someone is because their appearance (and as such part of their gender identity) is expected to coincide with their sexual identity. In this way, what is considered masculine and feminine in regards to dress is also a social construction. As fashion is primarily considered a feminine concern (, it is through examples of the female gender identity that fashions influence can best be seen.
Whilst fashion may try to subvert or construct gender identities, it may simply support social ideals already in place. As Malcom Barnard writes in his book Fashion as Communication, "Signs are only meaningful on the basis of their relations to all other signs" (1996, p156). In this way fashion can only convey a meaning when coupled with other signs (particularly the body itself), and as such cannot construct a gendered identity of its own accord. In order for clothing to be a signifier of a gender identity, that gender identity must already be constructed in order to give fashion its meaning. In which case, fashion is not constructing gender identities; it is reflecting and reinforcing them. Not all fashions have been accepted by society, the most obvious examples being skirts and the colour pink not being acceptable for men (Lurie, 1992, p214). Some designers, like Jennifer Minniti, have attempted to promote skirts and dresses as a male alternative; however such designs have not succeeded in the mainstream (Shreve, 1998). This is likely due to them not conforming to society's expectations of gender identities. Men in skirts are still considered to be cross dressing, and as such skirts remain signifiers of femininity. Gender identity also comprises more than appearance. Gesture, behaviour and social standing all contribute to a person's gender identity, and whilst fashion can attempt to draw on or hide these signifiers it cannot do so completely.
Fashion and Gender
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Fashion can certainly be used to parody, subvert and deconstruct gender identities (particularly the feminine), however, in the mainstream, it can only ever reflect the social conscious behind it. If society is not ready for men to wear skirts, then skirts will not be bought by the majority of men. Whilst designers like Jean Paul Gaultier can attempt to deconstruct gender stereotypes through fashion, many of these subversions can still be read as supporting the distinction between gender identities. Fashion and dress is influenced by both the body itself and the range of signs that it refers to, making it difficult to determine where fashion ends and social consciousness begins.
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Cross dressing has been utilized by performers like comedian Barry Humphries, as a means of making a social statement. Humphries' famous character Dame Edna Everage has become a popular entertainment figure. Through this character Humphries is able to explore and parody the construction of femininity. Dame Edna is deliberately extreme in her appearance, often wearing large ornate glasses and purple hair (Dame Edna The Official Site). She is an example of exaggerated femininity which borders on the grotesque. She is a loaded signifier, with her purple hair and extremely costume like clothes she is the epitome of gender as construction and denaturalises the idea that there is a natural gendered state. Such parody is not limited to cross dressing however, it can also be revealed through strategically designed garments like the Jean Paul Gaultier corset which Madonna famously wore.
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Whilst fashion may try to subvert or construct gender identities, it may simply support social ideals already in place. As Malcom Barnard writes in his book Fashion as Communication, "Signs are only meaningful on the basis of their relations to all other signs" (1996, p156). In this way fashion can only convey a meaning when coupled with other signs (particularly the body itself), and as such cannot construct a gendered identity of its own accord. In order for clothing to be a signifier of a gender identity, that gender identity must already be constructed in order to give fashion its meaning. In which case, fashion is not constructing gender identities; it is reflecting and reinforcing them. Not all fashions have been accepted by society, the most obvious examples being skirts and the colour pink not being acceptable for men (Lurie, 1992, p214). Some designers, like Jennifer Minniti, have attempted to promote skirts and dresses as a male alternative; however such designs have not succeeded in the mainstream (Shreve, 1998). This is likely due to them not conforming to society's expectations of gender identities. Men in skirts are still considered to be cross dressing, and as such skirts remain signifiers of femininity. Gender identity also comprises more than appearance. Gesture, behaviour and social standing all contribute to a person's gender identity, and whilst fashion can attempt to draw on or hide these signifiers it cannot do so completely.
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Cross dressing has been utilized by performers like comedian Barry Humphries, as a means of making a social statement. Humphries' famous character Dame Edna Everage has become a popular entertainment figure. Through this character Humphries is able to explore and parody the construction of femininity. Dame Edna is deliberately extreme in her appearance, often wearing large ornate glasses and purple hair (Dame Edna The Official Site). She is an example of exaggerated femininity which borders on the grotesque. She is a loaded signifier, with her purple hair and extremely costume like clothes she is the epitome of gender as construction and denaturalises the idea that there is a natural gendered state. Such parody is not limited to cross dressing however, it can also be revealed through strategically designed garments like the Jean Paul Gaultier corset which Madonna famously wore.
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Gaultier's design can be read as an attempt at subverting the objectification of women through fashion. By taking on a traditional signifier of women's restriction, that is, the corset, and placing large cone shaped breasts on it, it can be said that Gaultier has created an image of female empowerment (French, 2004). By making the corset visible he highlights the way in which women have been forced to conform to accepted standards of beauty, and the way in which these standards are constructed. The cones add to this reading by removing the maternal aspects of the breast and indicating the way in which they have been objectified and the unnatural form that has become the beauty standard in western culture (French, 2004). However this design could also be seen not as a parody and symbol of empowerment, but as a reinforcement of patriarchal ideals.
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The 'gaze' plays a significant role in the maintenance of the male/female binary and as such the separation of gender identities. The 'gaze' (that is, the act of looking at and objectifying the opposite sex) is considered predominantly masculine, with many images of women in the media being constructed for the male audience (Barnard, 1996, p140). However when a man is the subject of the gaze the binary is not destroyed, as merely reversing the act of 'looking' and being 'looked at' does not alter the active/passive, male/female binary. These must be transcended in order to begin breaking down the distinction between gender identities (Barnard, 1996, p140). As such fashion, by encouraging the male gaze and helping to define masculine from feminine is supporting the male/female binary. Cross dressing is one way of making it especially clear that this male/female binary exists.
Fashion and Gender
The 'gaze' plays a significant role in the maintenance of the male/female binary and as such the separation of gender identities. The 'gaze' (that is, the act of looking at and objectifying the opposite sex) is considered predominantly masculine, with many images of women in the media being constructed for the male audience (Barnard, 1996, p140). However when a man is the subject of the gaze the binary is not destroyed, as merely reversing the act of 'looking' and being 'looked at' does not alter the active/passive, male/female binary. These must be transcended in order to begin breaking down the distinction between gender identities (Barnard, 1996, p140). As such fashion, by encouraging the male gaze and helping to define masculine from feminine is supporting the male/female binary. Cross dressing is one way of making it especially clear that this male/female binary exists.
Fashion and Gender
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Fashion can certainly be used to parody, subvert and deconstruct gender identities (particularly the feminine), however, in the mainstream, it can only ever reflect the social conscious behind it. If society is not ready for men to wear skirts, then skirts will not be bought by the majority of men. Whilst designers like Jean Paul Gaultier can attempt to deconstruct gender stereotypes through fashion, many of these subversions can still be read as supporting the distinction between gender identities. Fashion and dress is influenced by both the body itself and the range of signs that it refers to, making it difficult to determine where fashion ends and social consciousness begins.
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Fashion perpetuates the image of the slender woman being the ideal feminine and can sometimes have significantly detrimental effects. Due to the mass production of clothing, it has become easier for the fashion industry to encourage women to be slender (Macdonald, 1995, p208). Many of the most fashionable garments are not made larger than a woman's Australian size fourteen. This encourages women to diet and exercise in order to lose weight, a trend also encouraged by the many advertisements involving slender women. One disturbing result of society's fascination with being thin has been the rise in eating disorders, including anorexia (Macdonald, 1995, p208). In Australia's November 2004 issue of Cosmopolitan an article was run entitled 'Anorexia for Sale'. This article discussed Mary Kate Olson, a well known actress, and her public struggle with Anorexia Nervosa. Images of Olsen and other famous women who appear to be unhealthily thin, such a Kate Moss, have been used on websites known as 'pro ana' sites, that is, websites supporting anorexia as a 'lifestyle choice' as opposed to an illness (Percival, 2004, p62). Many of these sites have begun to sell 'ana bracelets' and 'ana necklaces' which are a means of identifying other anorexics and which serve as a reminder not to eat. This jewellery has proven quite popular within the anorexic community (Percival, 2004, p62). This is an extreme example of fashion (or in this case accessories) being used to specifically propagate the idea of being thin. On the other hand clothing can also be used to raise awareness of eating disorders and encourage women not to go so far. T shirts with the slogan 'Save Mary Kate' and a drawing of her emaciated figure were released with just this intention (Percival, 2004, p62). Released when Mary Kate began her rehabilitation, the emaciated drawing on the t shirts is far from attractive and draws attention to her bones and the unnaturalness of being so thin. The words 'Save Mary Kate' could be read in one of two ways however, they could refer to the fact that she is need of help, thus constructing her as a victim, or they could be referring to the desirability of her image and a wish that she remain so thin, thus the implication could be 'Save Mary Kate from the rehabilitation clinic'. This second reading is supported by the image itself, in which she is smiling and returning the gaze of the viewer. This subverts the intended message that she is a victim.
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Fashion can certainly be used to parody, subvert and deconstruct gender identities (particularly the feminine), however, in the mainstream, it can only ever reflect the social conscious behind it. If society is not ready for men to wear skirts, then skirts will not be bought by the majority of men. Whilst designers like Jean Paul Gaultier can attempt to deconstruct gender stereotypes through fashion, many of these subversions can still be read as supporting the distinction between gender identities. Fashion and dress is influenced by both the body itself and the range of signs that it refers to, making it difficult to determine where fashion ends and social consciousness begins.
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There is no inherent reason for an item of clothing, for example a skirt, to be considered feminine. Roland Barthes, in his book The Diseases of Costume, writes of theatrical dress as a kind of language in which the basic element is the sign (Lurie, 1992, p3). This statement can be expanded to include all elements of dress away from the theatre. If clothing is a sign therefore, it must be given a meaning and this meaning, as with all signs, is constructed. For example, society has identified the skirt as a signifier of femininity, which has been reinforced through repeated exposure (both through the media and on the street) to images of women in skirts and men in trousers. The fact that the gender signification of this garment has altered indicates that fashion, just like gender itself, is a social construction, with fashion items becoming loaded signs. If our appearance is an accumulation of signs then we each reveal something about ourselves through our choice of garments; clothing becomes a reflection of our identity. Whilst fashion does allow women to experiment with their image and different ways of portraying femininity, as something primarily constructed for the male gaze it still confines women to a choice between constructed female identities (Barnard, 1996, p140).
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The 'gaze' plays a significant role in the maintenance of the male/female binary and as such the separation of gender identities. The 'gaze' (that is, the act of looking at and objectifying the opposite sex) is considered predominantly masculine, with many images of women in the media being constructed for the male audience (Barnard, 1996, p140). However when a man is the subject of the gaze the binary is not destroyed, as merely reversing the act of 'looking' and being 'looked at' does not alter the active/passive, male/female binary. These must be transcended in order to begin breaking down the distinction between gender identities (Barnard, 1996, p140). As such fashion, by encouraging the male gaze and helping to define masculine from feminine is supporting the male/female binary. Cross dressing is one way of making it especially clear that this male/female binary exists.
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There is no inherent reason for an item of clothing, for example a skirt, to be considered feminine. Roland Barthes, in his book The Diseases of Costume, writes of theatrical dress as a kind of language in which the basic element is the sign (Lurie, 1992, p3). This statement can be expanded to include all elements of dress away from the theatre. If clothing is a sign therefore, it must be given a meaning and this meaning, as with all signs, is constructed. For example, society has identified the skirt as a signifier of femininity, which has been reinforced through repeated exposure (both through the media and on the street) to images of women in skirts and men in trousers. The fact that the gender signification of this garment has altered indicates that fashion, just like gender itself, is a social construction, with fashion items becoming loaded signs. If our appearance is an accumulation of signs then we each reveal something about ourselves through our choice of garments; clothing becomes a reflection of our identity. Whilst fashion does allow women to experiment with their image and different ways of portraying femininity, as something primarily constructed for the male gaze it still confines women to a choice between constructed female identities (Barnard, 1996, p140).
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In society today there is a clear divide between fashions considered feminine and those considered masculine. However, is this a result of the fashion industry itself, or is the industry merely reflecting the changing attitudes of society as a whole? It is difficult to determine where the line between gender reproduction and gender construction stands in regards to fashion and dress, as it can be read in a number of ways. Fashion has been used in attempts to deconstruct gender stereotypes, as in some cases of cross dressing, but has also been used as a means of reinforcing them via items like the high heeled shoe. Fashion has been a part of western culture for centuries and as fashion has changed so too has its significations. The style of the garments we wear, their fabrics and colours, all carry signifiers of various aspects of our lives. In times past, fashion trends were set by the middle and upper classes, with the result that fashion became a signifier of social standing. For example during the Baroque period of the seventeenth century it was fashionable for both men and woman of the upper classes to wear garments decorated with large amounts of lace and ribbon (Stecker, 1996, p14). This gave men's fashion a highly feminine appearance; however they were quite distinct from the lower classes which did not utilise such decoration. In the present day this class distinction has lessened and a gender distinction has become predominant. This division is established almost as soon as we are born. In western culture it is customary for male babies to wear blue and female babies to wear pink. earning a living) (Lurie, 1992, p214). In the adult world it is acceptable for women to wear blue, however men still rarely wear pink, and those who do are often accused of being effeminate and homosexual (Lurie, 1992, p214). One theory states that one of the first functions of clothing was to attract the opposite sex. By only revealing and highlighting specific parts of the body, much can be left to the imagination and thus sexual desire is increased (Lurie, 1992, p213). This is similar to Freud's assertion that "visual impressions remain the most frequent pathway along which libidinal excitation is aroused" (Freud, 1977, p69). In order to be successful in attracting a member of the opposite sex the garments must therefore serve to distinguish men from women. On a basic level this can be seen in department stores where the women's clothing section is distinct from the men's. However the relationship between fashion and gender is significantly more complicated, with the definition of what gender actually is having a significant effect on how fashion could be seen to impact it.
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The 'gaze' plays a significant role in the maintenance of the male/female binary and as such the separation of gender identities. The 'gaze' (that is, the act of looking at and objectifying the opposite sex) is considered predominantly masculine, with many images of women in the media being constructed for the male audience (Barnard, 1996, p140). However when a man is the subject of the gaze the binary is not destroyed, as merely reversing the act of 'looking' and being 'looked at' does not alter the active/passive, male/female binary. These must be transcended in order to begin breaking down the distinction between gender identities (Barnard, 1996, p140). As such fashion, by encouraging the male gaze and helping to define masculine from feminine is supporting the male/female binary. Cross dressing is one way of making it especially clear that this male/female binary exists.
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Fashion can certainly be used to parody, subvert and deconstruct gender identities (particularly the feminine), however, in the mainstream, it can only ever reflect the social conscious behind it. If society is not ready for men to wear skirts, then skirts will not be bought by the majority of men. Whilst designers like Jean Paul Gaultier can attempt to deconstruct gender stereotypes through fashion, many of these subversions can still be read as supporting the distinction between gender identities. Fashion and dress is influenced by both the body itself and the range of signs that it refers to, making it difficult to determine where fashion ends and social consciousness begins.
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Judith Butler has been an influential figure in the study of whether gender is a construction or inherent. According to Butler in her book Gender Trouble, a gender identity is a series of gender signifiers, for example, gestures, which are learnt via mimesis and reinforced through repetition (Butler, 1990, p6). Through this reinforcement the performance of gender also becomes internalised so that we come to believe these masculine and feminine identities are 'normal'. As such, gender is a social construction imposed on individuals based on their anatomy (sexual identity) (Butler, 1990, p6 If gender identity is learnt, then it is not inherent, and therefore does not necessarily coincide with ones sexual identity. By encoding specific garments and styles as either feminine or masculine, it becomes much clearer what gender someone is because their appearance (and as such part of their gender identity) is expected to coincide with their sexual identity. In this way, what is considered masculine and feminine in regards to dress is also a social construction. As fashion is primarily considered a feminine concern (, it is through examples of the female gender identity that fashions influence can best be seen.
Cross dressing has been utilized by performers like comedian Barry Humphries, as a means of making a social statement. Humphries' famous character Dame Edna Everage has become a popular entertainment figure. Through this character Humphries is able to explore and parody the construction of femininity. Dame Edna is deliberately extreme in her appearance, often wearing large ornate glasses and purple hair (Dame Edna The Official Site). She is an example of exaggerated femininity which borders on the grotesque. She is a loaded signifier, with her purple hair and extremely costume like clothes she is the epitome of gender as construction and denaturalises the idea that there is a natural gendered state. Such parody is not limited to cross dressing however, it can also be revealed through strategically designed garments like the Jean Paul Gaultier corset which Madonna famously wore.
Fashion and Gender
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The 'gaze' plays a significant role in the maintenance of the male/female binary and as such the separation of gender identities. The 'gaze' (that is, the act of looking at and objectifying the opposite sex) is considered predominantly masculine, with many images of women in the media being constructed for the male audience (Barnard, 1996, p140). However when a man is the subject of the gaze the binary is not destroyed, as merely reversing the act of 'looking' and being 'looked at' does not alter the active/passive, male/female binary. These must be transcended in order to begin breaking down the distinction between gender identities (Barnard, 1996, p140). As such fashion, by encouraging the male gaze and helping to define masculine from feminine is supporting the male/female binary. Cross dressing is one way of making it especially clear that this male/female binary exists.
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Madonna has been a 'sex symbol' for decades, with her streamlined, slim, healthy body and attractive blonde image conforming to the feminine ideal. She has become a loaded sign in herself. In this way, when she makes the corset visible it becomes fetishised. The revealing of undergarments is already a sexual image, but by coupling it with a sexual body this effect is enhanced (Lurie, 1992, p6). She also does not appear uncomfortable in the garment, and can move easily about the stage, thus indicating that if one conforms to this stereotype then they will achieve some element of freedom. Similarly the cone shaped breasts become objects of sexual desire by drawing attention to her breasts in a non maternal light, making them the most eye catching thing about the entire garment. The costume is completed with fish net stockings, an item which conjures images of promiscuous women. To add to this her hair is tied up in a style reminiscent of Barbra Eden's in I Dream of Jeannie, in which Jeannie calls Major Nelson (played by Larry Hagman) 'Master' (I Dream of Jeannie, 1965 1970). This combination of signifiers serves to reinforce the feminine stereotype through Jean Paul Gaultier's corset, rather than subverting the feminine ideal. In this costume Madonna becomes the fetishised subject of the male gaze. The duality of the garment is a clear indicator of the various ways in which fashion and dress can be read, as well as the way it ultimately still supports the constructed female gender identity despite trying to subvert it. It also shows that the reading of fashion can be influenced by the body and any pre existing signs which a garment or image may refer to. At times these references are clearly apparent.
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A woman wearing men's clothing does not conform to the feminine ideal and as such is recognisably subverting it. The fact that this subversion is identifiable highlights the gendered nature of the fashion industry and the way in which it supports society's belief in the feminine being separate from the masculine. If gender identity is learnt, then by choosing our own clothes we reflect how well we have learnt to be masculine or feminine. For cross dressers fashion is a means of either constructing a gendered identity different to the one expected of them or parodying the constructed nature of gender itself.
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Fashion perpetuates the image of the slender woman being the ideal feminine and can sometimes have significantly detrimental effects. Due to the mass production of clothing, it has become easier for the fashion industry to encourage women to be slender (Macdonald, 1995, p208). Many of the most fashionable garments are not made larger than a woman's Australian size fourteen. This encourages women to diet and exercise in order to lose weight, a trend also encouraged by the many advertisements involving slender women. One disturbing result of society's fascination with being thin has been the rise in eating disorders, including anorexia (Macdonald, 1995, p208). In Australia's November 2004 issue of Cosmopolitan an article was run entitled 'Anorexia for Sale'. This article discussed Mary Kate Olson, a well known actress, and her public struggle with Anorexia Nervosa. Images of Olsen and other famous women who appear to be unhealthily thin, such a Kate Moss, have been used on websites known as 'pro ana' sites, that is, websites supporting anorexia as a 'lifestyle choice' as opposed to an illness (Percival, 2004, p62). Many of these sites have begun to sell 'ana bracelets' and 'ana necklaces' which are a means of identifying other anorexics and which serve as a reminder not to eat. This jewellery has proven quite popular within the anorexic community (Percival, 2004, p62). This is an extreme example of fashion (or in this case accessories) being used to specifically propagate the idea of being thin. On the other hand clothing can also be used to raise awareness of eating disorders and encourage women not to go so far. T shirts with the slogan 'Save Mary Kate' and a drawing of her emaciated figure were released with just this intention (Percival, 2004, p62). Released when Mary Kate began her rehabilitation, the emaciated drawing on the t shirts is far from attractive and draws attention to her bones and the unnaturalness of being so thin. The words 'Save Mary Kate' could be read in one of two ways however, they could refer to the fact that she is need of help, thus constructing her as a victim, or they could be referring to the desirability of her image and a wish that she remain so thin, thus the implication could be 'Save Mary Kate from the rehabilitation clinic'. This second reading is supported by the image itself, in which she is smiling and returning the gaze of the viewer. This subverts the intended message that she is a victim.
Madonna has been a 'sex symbol' for decades, with her streamlined, slim, healthy body and attractive blonde image conforming to the feminine ideal. She has become a loaded sign in herself. In this way, when she makes the corset visible it becomes fetishised. The revealing of undergarments is already a sexual image, but by coupling it with a sexual body this effect is enhanced (Lurie, 1992, p6). She also does not appear uncomfortable in the garment, and can move easily about the stage, thus indicating that if one conforms to this stereotype then they will achieve some element of freedom. Similarly the cone shaped breasts become objects of sexual desire by drawing attention to her breasts in a non maternal light, making them the most eye catching thing about the entire garment. The costume is completed with fish net stockings, an item which conjures images of promiscuous women. To add to this her hair is tied up in a style reminiscent of Barbra Eden's in I Dream of Jeannie, in which Jeannie calls Major Nelson (played by Larry Hagman) 'Master' (I Dream of Jeannie, 1965 1970). This combination of signifiers serves to reinforce the feminine stereotype through Jean Paul Gaultier's corset, rather than subverting the feminine ideal. In this costume Madonna becomes the fetishised subject of the male gaze. The duality of the garment is a clear indicator of the various ways in which fashion and dress can be read, as well as the way it ultimately still supports the constructed female gender identity despite trying to subvert it. It also shows that the reading of fashion can be influenced by the body and any pre existing signs which a garment or image may refer to. At times these references are clearly apparent.
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The 'gaze' plays a significant role in the maintenance of the male/female binary and as such the separation of gender identities. The 'gaze' (that is, the act of looking at and objectifying the opposite sex) is considered predominantly masculine, with many images of women in the media being constructed for the male audience (Barnard, 1996, p140). However when a man is the subject of the gaze the binary is not destroyed, as merely reversing the act of 'looking' and being 'looked at' does not alter the active/passive, male/female binary. These must be transcended in order to begin breaking down the distinction between gender identities (Barnard, 1996, p140). As such fashion, by encouraging the male gaze and helping to define masculine from feminine is supporting the male/female binary. Cross dressing is one way of making it especially clear that this male/female binary exists.
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Judith Butler has been an influential figure in the study of whether gender is a construction or inherent. According to Butler in her book Gender Trouble, a gender identity is a series of gender signifiers, for example, gestures, which are learnt via mimesis and reinforced through repetition (Butler, 1990, p6). Through this reinforcement the performance of gender also becomes internalised so that we come to believe these masculine and feminine identities are 'normal'. As such, gender is a social construction imposed on individuals based on their anatomy (sexual identity) (Butler, 1990, p6 If gender identity is learnt, then it is not inherent, and therefore does not necessarily coincide with ones sexual identity. By encoding specific garments and styles as either feminine or masculine, it becomes much clearer what gender someone is because their appearance (and as such part of their gender identity) is expected to coincide with their sexual identity. In this way, what is considered masculine and feminine in regards to dress is also a social construction. As fashion is primarily considered a feminine concern (, it is through examples of the female gender identity that fashions influence can best be seen.
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Fashion can certainly be used to parody, subvert and deconstruct gender identities (particularly the feminine), however, in the mainstream, it can only ever reflect the social conscious behind it. If society is not ready for men to wear skirts, then skirts will not be bought by the majority of men. Whilst designers like Jean Paul Gaultier can attempt to deconstruct gender stereotypes through fashion, many of these subversions can still be read as supporting the distinction between gender identities. Fashion and dress is influenced by both the body itself and the range of signs that it refers to, making it difficult to determine where fashion ends and social consciousness begins.
Gaultier's design can be read as an attempt at subverting the objectification of women through fashion. By taking on a traditional signifier of women's restriction, that is, the corset, and placing large cone shaped breasts on it, it can be said that Gaultier has created an image of female empowerment (French, 2004). By making the corset visible he highlights the way in which women have been forced to conform to accepted standards of beauty, and the way in which these standards are constructed. The cones add to this reading by removing the maternal aspects of the breast and indicating the way in which they have been objectified and the unnatural form that has become the beauty standard in western culture (French, 2004). However this design could also be seen not as a parody and symbol of empowerment, but as a reinforcement of patriarchal ideals.
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Judith Butler has been an influential figure in the study of whether gender is a construction or inherent. According to Butler in her book Gender Trouble, a gender identity is a series of gender signifiers, for example, gestures, which are learnt via mimesis and reinforced through repetition (Butler, 1990, p6). Through this reinforcement the performance of gender also becomes internalised so that we come to believe these masculine and feminine identities are 'normal'. As such, gender is a social construction imposed on individuals based on their anatomy (sexual identity) (Butler, 1990, p6 If gender identity is learnt, then it is not inherent, and therefore does not necessarily coincide with ones sexual identity. By encoding specific garments and styles as either feminine or masculine, it becomes much clearer what gender someone is because their appearance (and as such part of their gender identity) is expected to coincide with their sexual identity. In this way, what is considered masculine and feminine in regards to dress is also a social construction. As fashion is primarily considered a feminine concern (, it is through examples of the female gender identity that fashions influence can best be seen.
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時代を作るのはいつも「人」と考え、ラフォーレ原宿はその時代のパイオニアたちと新たなものを一緒に作っていくビルというスタンスで、常に新しいこと、時代の半歩先を見て、運営に当たっています。
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